Thursday, March 16, 2023

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FRAGRANCE PERSISTENCE.

 The multifaceted perfume industry has experienced substantial growth and expansion in recent years. An influx of new fragrances from a plethora of brands and concerns, including Estee Lauder Companies, DKNY, Editions De Parfums Frederic Malle, Kilian, Michael Kors, and others, has contributed to this growth. Furthermore, small-scale yet equally intriguing brands such as Brocard became a significant topic in the perfume news in 2017.




Despite the increase in the number of available fragrances, the persistence of the fragrance remains a controversial topic. It is common to hear complaints such as "this fragrance does not hold on me," or "I cannot sense it after ten minutes." It is widely known that each fragrance opens differently on different people, but the issue with durability is more complex.


If you encounter the problem of a fragrance not working on you, do not panic. Firstly, let's understand what firmness is and what factors impact it. As we know, perfume components can be classified into three categories: vegetable, animal, and synthetic. Plant components are derived from natural ingredients via distillation and essential oil production. Animal ingredients such as musk, ambergris, castor, and others mainly serve to anchor the scent on a person. Synthetic components are obtained from natural sources, for example, anise oil, using specialized chemical processes. These fragrant substances are not found in nature.


The duration of the fragrance is determined by the composition of fragrant substances, their concentration, and, surprisingly, you. The same fragrance lasts and develops differently on different people due to individual skin peculiarities. Another reason why a fragrance may not last on you is that your body may become desensitized to it over time. It is not your fault, nor is it the fault of the scent manufacturers, who some believe are attempting to deceive customers, or the perfumers who supposedly chose the wrong composition. Rather, it is merely chance. Everyone has a scent that they can hardly perceive. Therefore, if it seems like the perfume disappears after five minutes, ask those around you; perhaps they can still detect it?


Moreover, our brain can adapt to external stimuli, including the fragrance we use. Thus, if the scent does not change over time, we may simply stop detecting it.


Now that we have delved into what persistence entails and how it should be comprehended in a perfume context, let us dispel the myths surrounding it.


Myth #1: One should not rub the area on their skin where they applied the perfume.

On various forums, some individuals argue that rubbing the applied perfume should not be done since the fragrance escapes within seconds. In reality, when we rub the applied perfume, we heat up our skin, causing the very top notes of the composition that we sense initially to vanish much faster.


Myth #2: The finest fragrance is long-lasting and leaves a trail.

Fortunately, perfumes are not designed for everyone around you to choke on your scent. Perfumes are meant to elicit emotions and sensations. If only vivid and overpowering compositions bring you joy and pleasure (and they often leave a trail behind you), it is advisable to experiment and try something more poetic.


Myth #3: The Persistence Puzzle of Perfume and Eau de Toilette


The age-old contention that perfume is the ultimate choice when it comes to staying power is nothing but a mythical perception. In fact, it all boils down to the concentration and the amount of fragrant substances. Perfume is a concoction that contains 20-30% of fragrant substances, while perfume water contains 15-20%, eau de toilette has about 5-15%, cologne contains 2-4%, and fragrant essence, the lightest in concentration, only contains 1-3%.


However, the perplexing truth is that the persistence and intensity of a perfume product have little to do with the concentration of fragrant substances in it. Every ingredient, with its own unique scent intensity and physical properties, impacts the evaporation process and how quickly it dissipates from your skin. For instance, even if you increase the concentration of bergamot essential oil, it will still evaporate within seconds. Therefore, the composition of the mixture is the key determinant of its staying power.


Myth #4: The Natural Fragrance Fallacy


Another common myth is that perfumes without synthetic fragrances tend to last longer than their synthetic counterparts. This is far from the truth, and, more often than not, the opposite holds. For example, a natural fragrance belonging to the herbal or citrus group will not last as long as its synthetic counterpart because fixatives are added to synthetic fragrances to make them last longer. Additionally, the natural bergamot and its synthetic equivalent, linalyl acetate, are volatile substances, and the lighter molecules tend to evaporate more quickly, affecting their persistence.


Myth, #5, has persisted for decades, touting the belief that long-lasting fragrances are superior. The origins of this notion are rooted in the Soviet past, where obtaining perfume was a nearly insurmountable feat. Women, unable to choose from a variety of scents, relied on the longevity of their chosen perfume as a metric for quality.


Fast forward to today, and the staying power of a fragrance is no longer a primary factor in the decision-making process of consumers. In fact, in selective perfumery, long-lasting perfume is virtually irrelevant, as it has almost no impact on the product's overall quality. While the idea of a perfume that lasts all day may seem appealing, it's important to remember that such longevity does not necessarily equate to a superior product.


As with any fragrance purchase, it's essential to select a scent that resonates with your personal preferences. While long-lasting perfume may be desirable for some, it's not a metric by which to judge the quality of a fragrance. Moreover, just because a perfume doesn't linger on your skin does not mean it's inherently inferior. Perhaps you simply cannot smell it, and your olfactory system isn't picking up on its nuances. In conclusion, when it comes to perfume, don't be swayed by outdated myths and advertising gimmicks. Choose a scent that speaks to you, and enjoy it to the fullest, regardless of its longevity.

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